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Real people across the country answer the question: what are you doing with your money in the wake of the financial crisis? NO PANIC, NO EMOTION, NO
WRONG DECISION! READ BELOW----- HERE ARE THE SAFEST PLACES WHERE YOU CAN PUT YOUR MONEY AND HAVE PEACE OF MIND. READ BELOW!!
YOUR MONEY CAN BE IN, AND BE SAFE AT:
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FDIC Deposit Insurance Coverage
The Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation (FDIC) is an independent
agency of the United States government that protects against the
loss of insured deposits if an FDIC-insured bank or savings
association fails.

FDIC deposit insurance is backed by the full faith and credit of the
United States government. Since the FDIC was established, no
depositor has ever lost a single penny of FDIC-insured funds.

FDIC insurance covers funds in deposit accounts, including
checking and savings accounts, money market deposit accounts
and certificates of deposit (CDs). FDIC insurance does not, however,
cover other financial products and services that insured banks may
offer, such as stocks, bonds, mutual fund shares, life insurance
policies, annuities or municipal securities.

There is no need for depositors to apply for FDIC insurance or even
to request it. Coverage is automatic.

To ensure funds are fully protected, depositors should understand
their deposit insurance coverage limits. The FDIC provides separate
insurance coverage for deposits held in different ownership
categories such as single accounts, joint accounts, Individual
Retirement Accounts (IRAs) and trust accounts.

Basic FDIC Deposit Insurance Coverage Limits*
Single Accounts (owned by one person)        $250,000 per owner**

Joint Accounts (two or more persons)        $250,000 per co-owner**

IRAs and certain other retirement accounts        $250,000 per owner

Trust Accounts        $250,000 per owner per beneficiary subject to
specific limitations and requirements**

These deposit insurance coverage limits refer to the
total of all deposits that an accountholder (or
accountholders) has at each FDIC-insured bank. The
listing above shows only the most common ownership
categories that apply to individual and family deposits,
and assumes that all FDIC requirements are met.
** The legislation authorizing the increase in deposit
insurance coverage limits makes the change effective
October 3, 2008, through December 31, 2009.
How do money market accounts work?
A money market account is a type of savings account offered by banks and
credit unions just like regular savings accounts.

The difference is that they usually pay higher interest, have higher minimum
balance requirements (sometimes $1000-$2500), and only allow three to six
withdrawals per month. Another difference is that, similar to a checking
account, many money market accounts will let you write up to three checks
each month.

YOUR MONEY CAN BE IN, AND BE SAFE AT:
Money Market Account Interest
KNOWLEDGEFINANCIALGROUP.COM

When you put your money into a money market savings account it earns interest
just like in a regular savings account. Interest is money the bank pays you so
that they can use your money to fund loans to other people. That doesn't mean
you can't have your money whenever you want it, though. That's just how banks
make money -- by selling money! Basically, it works like this:
You open a money market account at the bank.

The bank pays you interest on the money that you deposit and leave in that
account.
The bank then loans that money out to other people, only they charge a slightly
higher interest for the loan than what they pay you for your account.

The difference in interest they pay you verses the interest they charge others is
part of how they stay in business. We'll take a look at how the interest on money
market accounts works in the next section.

Interest on money market accounts is usually compounded daily and paid
monthly. The cool thing about compounded interest is that the bank is paying you
interest on the money they've paid you in interest.

Interest rates paid by money market accounts can vary quite a bit from bank to
bank. That's because some banks are trying harder to get people to open an
account with them than others -- so they offer higher rates.

Operational Details of Money Market Mutual Funds!
How Do I Buy Bonds?
How the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation Works?
What's the difference between a recession and a
depression?

Bond Basics: Different Types Of Bonds
YOUR MONEY CAN BE IN...
INSURED CREDIT UNION
KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM

Congress established the NCUSIF in 1970 to insure member share
accounts at all federally chartered credit unions and most state
chartered credit unions. NCUSIF insurance is similar to the deposit
insurance protection offered by the Federal Deposit Insurance
Corporation (FDIC). The NCUSIF is managed by NCUA under the
direction of the three-person NCUA Board appointed by the
President of the United States.

The National Credit Union Administration (NCUA) is an independent
agency of the United States Government. NCUA regulates, charters,
and insures the nation's federal credit unions. In addition, NCUA
insures state-chartered credit unions that desire and qualify for
federal insurance. In some states, state-chartered credit unions are
required by state law to be federally insured

How does NCUSIF share insurance protect credit union members
against loss?
Each credit union approved for NCUSIF share insurance must meet
high standards of safety and soundness in its operation. Adherence
to these standards is determined regularly through credit union
examinations by federal and state examiners. If an insured credit
union gets into financial difficulties and must be closed, the NCUSIF
acts immediately to protect each member’s share account.
YOUR MONEY CAN IN...
Treasury Bill - T-Bill
KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM

A short-term debt obligation backed by the U.S. government with
a maturity of less than one year. T-bills are sold in denominations
of $1,000 up to a maximum purchase of $5 million and commonly
have maturities of one month (four weeks), three months (13
weeks) or six months (26 weeks).

T-bills are issued through a competitive bidding process at a
discount from par, which means that rather than paying fixed
interest payments like conventional bonds, the appreciation of the
bond provides the return to the holder. For example, let's say
you buy a 13-week T-bill priced at $9,800.

Essentially, the U.S. government (and its nearly bulletproof credit
rating) writes you an IOU for $10,000 that it agrees to pay back in
three months. You will not receive regular payments as you would
with a coupon bond, for example. Instead, the appreciation - and,
therefore, the value to you - comes from the difference between
the discounted value you originally paid and the amount you
receive back ($10,000). In this case, the T-bill pays a 2.04%
interest rate ($200/$9,800 = 2.04%) over a three-month period.
YOUR MONEY CAN BE IN...

Treasury Bond - T-Bond

A marketable, fixed-interest U.S. government debt security with a maturity of more than 10 years. Treasury bonds make interest payments semi-annually and the income that holders
receive is only taxed at the federal level. Treasury bonds are issued with a minimum denomination of $1,000. The bonds are initially sold through auction in which the maximum
purchase amount is $5 million if the bid is non-competitive or 35% of the offering if the bid is competitive. A competitive bid states the rate that the bidder is willing to accept; it will be
accepted depending on how it compares to the set rate of the bond. A non-competitive bid ensures that the bidder will get the bond but he or she will have to accept the set rate. After
the auction, the bonds can be sold in the secondary market.
YOUR MONEY CAN BE IN...
Treasury note --Knowledgefinancial.com
Treasury notes (or T-Notes) mature in two to ten years. They have
a coupon payment every six months, and are commonly issued
with maturities dates of 2, 5 or 10 years, for denominations from
$100 to $1,000,000.

T-Notes and T-Bonds are quoted on the secondary market at
percentage of par in thirty-seconds of a point. Thus, for example,
a quote of 95:07 on a note indicates that it is trading at a discount:
$952.19 (i.e. 95 7/32%) for a $1,000 bond. (Several different
notations may be used for bond price quotes. The example of 95
and 7/32 points may be written as 95:07, or 95-07, or 95'07, or
decimalized as 95.21875.) Other notation includes a +, which
indicates 1/64 points and a third digit may be specified to
represent 1/256 points. Examples include 95:07+ which equates
to (95 + 7/32 + 1/64) and 95:073 which equates to (95 + 7/32 +
3/256). Notation such as 95:073+ is unusual and not typically used.

The 10-year Treasury note has become the security most
frequently quoted when discussing the performance of the U.S.
government-bond market and is used to convey the market's take
on longer-term macroeconomic expectations.
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The 7 New Rules of
Financial Security

In a world turned upside
down, you must
re-examine some basic
assumptions. A good
place to start:
understanding the true
nature of risk.

Rule No. 1: Risk

Old thinking: If you can stomach the ups and downs that come
with risk, you'll be rewarded.

New rule: Risk isn't about your stomach. It's about making or
missing an important goal.

You know you have to consider risk. But what is risk? Many of
us have learned to think of risk as synonymous with volatility.
For years, what came down reliably bounced back even higher.
You could easily conclude that risk tolerance was just a matter
of taste. As long as you had the fortitude to see the occasional
loss on your 401(k) statement and not panic, you would capture
superior returns over time.

What to do: You shouldn't run from risky investments just
because they lost money - that train has left the station. But the
old buy-on-the-dips advice isn't quite right either. This bear
market's lesson is that how much risk you can take is a matter
of how much you can lose and still meet your basic goals. That
may mean scaling back on stocks, even if you miss some of
the next market rebound.

Rule No. 2: Cash

Old thinking: Keep enough money in ultrasafe accounts to
cover life's emergencies, but no more.

New rule: Relying more on cash can rescue you in an "asset
emergency."

For most of your career you'll want to set aside about six
months' worth of living expenses in the bank. That money
covers the mortgage and puts food on the table should you lose
your job. The fact that you'll earn only about 2% is beside the
point. You can't take the risk.

The simultaneous crash in stocks and houses has taught us
that we need to redefine "emergency."Rande Spiegelman, vice
president of financial planning for the Schwab Center for
Financial Research, recommends looking at the next one to
three years and adding up any big-ticket stuff you see coming:
tuition, a wedding, a down payment on a house. Once you have
your total, aim to hold that much in a cash account or a low-risk
investment such as a high-quality short-term bond fund.

What to do: It's not easy to build cash savings and a retirement
fund at the same time. If you have to make choices, build up
that emergency fund first because you can't expect to lean on
your home equity or stocks if you lose your job. And see if you
have some flexibility on the big-ticket obligations. Maybe you
plan for a state school rather than a private college, or
downsize the wedding. If all your assets are in a 401(k), move
some of that balance to low-risk investment options as you
build your cash funds. That will preserve more to tap via a
401(k) loan in a pinch. Not a terrific option, but it can beat the
alternatives.

In the years just before and after retirement, cash becomes
even more important. You don't want to sell stocks during a
bear market to buy groceries. Aim for two to four years' worth of
living expenses in low-risk assets as you near retirement.

Rule No. 3: Human Capital

Old thinking: The longer your time horizon, the more stocks you
should own.

New rule: Time isn't everything. You must also consider your
earnings potential.

It's one of the basic rules of thumb: The more years you have to
recoup losses, the more aggressive you can be. Unfortunately,
the math isn't so clear-cut.

Here's a better way to think about how aggressive your
portfolio should be: Imagine that it includes not only stocks and
bonds but also your human capital, meaning your ability to earn
income by working. The safer it is, the more chances you can
afford to take with your other assets - that is, your portfolio.

This doesn't mean that time no longer matters. As you age, the
value of your human capital declines, and you'll need to secure
more of your savings. So the conventional advice to hold a lot
in stocks when you are young and gradually trim back can still
make sense.

But not for everyone. The nature of your career may make your
human capital more bond-like or more stock-like, says finance
professor Moshe Milevsky of York University in Toronto.
Tenured professors like Milevsky have human capital that
resembles a triple-A-rated bond, especially when they have a
solid pension plan.

Those lucky souls can dive aggressively into stocks and even
stay there as they approach retirement, he says. The human
capital of a commission-based mortgage broker, on the other
hand, is pretty clearly a stock - and it's not a blue chip. That
person should own a fair amount of bonds, even when young.

What to do: Assess your human capital. A typical worker's
income is about 70% like a bond and 30% like a stock, says
Thomas Idzorek, chief investment officer for Ibbotson
Associates.
Use that as your baseline and then think about how long you'll
be working, the stability of your current job, and your ability to
change careers if you have to.
You've probably realized in the past few months that your
human capital is not as secure as you once thought. If you've
been an aggressive investor, that alone may be a reason to
shift more of your assets to safer ground.
MONEY, FINANCE.
ECONONY & BUSINESS

6 Ways to Save Money on
Vacation


May 28, 2008
Even though I knew my vacation to Belize last week wouldn't
be cheap,  I tried to keep it from getting out of hand with
money-saving travel techniques I've developed by trial and
error. (Spending a dinner's worth of money on ATM fees isn't
the kind of thing you easily forget.) Here are my top six frugal
tips that won't interfere with any vacation fun:

• Rent. If you're going somewhere for more than a
couple of days, look into renting an apartment instead of
staying at a hotel. (Websites for specific destinations can be
easily found through Internet searches.) When you have a
kitchen, you can make breakfast and sometimes lunch and
dinner on your own, which easily adds up to over $40 a day.

• Buy your own beer.  If you like a daily
beer or cocktail on vacation, finding a local liquor store and
mixing your own drinks can save up to $10 a person each
day.

• Use comparison websites.
Travel sites such as Tripadvisor.com help vacationers find
good deals and avoid wasting money on poor-quality hotels
and resorts. Users leave helpful descriptions about their
experiences along with photos.

• Stick with plastic.  By charging as
much as possible to credit cards (and paying them off when
you get the bill), you can avoid hefty international ATM fees,
as well as the risk of losing a wad of cash. Credit card
statements also make it easy to review all the charges once
you get home so you know where your money went.

• Bring snacks. By keeping a few granola
bars and a refillable water bottle in my backpack, I avoid
shelling out money on pricey food at the airport or at kiosks
surrounding tourist destinations. (Added benefit: keeping
blood sugar high enough to enjoy the sites.)

• Ask for deals. Hotels often run specials,
especially during off-season. Ask if breakfast or dinner can
be included in your room rate. (Asking this question by E-
mail when we made one of our bookings for last week got
us free dinners and breakfasts for four days.)

I'd love to hear everyone else's savvy traveling ideas; please
share them below. And check out other bloggers' tips here,
here, and here.
TOUGH TIMES AHEAD!    ----
KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
First and foremost, it’s about your passion and commitment
to your dream. Ask yourself, would you be doing what you
are doing if times were great and there was a myriad of
opportunities at your fingertips? If the answer is yes, then
you can truly say that you should continue on the path you’re
on. You truly believe in your dream, and that is often more
than 90% of the battle. Remember: No one said it would be
easy or hard. It’s about your intention.
--------------------------------------------------

Difficult times:    -----
KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
Difficult times simply mean you have to be even more
thoughtful as to how to go to market.  In,  “Growing a
Business,”   the success or failure of one’s business is not a
function of having a lot of money to invest in its development.

In fact he states that having too much money at your
disposal often discourages you from using your imagination.
Yes, it’s more than money that makes a business a success
or not. When thinking about the viability of your business,
you need to get to whether or not you can fill a void in the
marketplace for your potential buyer.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Transformation:   -----
KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
Transforming your dream into reality is the role of
marketing. This is where the “rubber meets the road.” Think
about why marketing is so important.  It’s about your ability
to apply an understanding of current market conditions and
how the consumer may react to them. While some may say
that marketing is a science, I would say that it is an art. And
those who are most successful at it recognize that they
need to create a curious mixture of instinct and knowledge
of consumer behavior in order to succeed.
-------------------------------------------------------------


Don’t be Afraid of Change

Irrespective of what you may
feel politically, the election of Barack Obama
does signal that we need to make changes in order to turn
things around. And like generations before us, for the adept
marketer there are numerous opportunities. There will be so
many different needs that a consumer will have, and that’s
what makes capitalism so enduring. So don’t despair, look
at the New Year as an opportunity to re-dedicate yourself to
your business and, by doing so, make your dreams come
true.


KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
Managing Debt and Credit
Avoiding credit card overload
increases your opportunities to
save and invest for important
goals.
Topics And Definition


Managing Debt and Credit
Installment Debt
Revolving Credit
Using Credit Wisely
Eliminating Credit Card Debt
The Role of Debt


1- Managing Debt and Credit
Credit was once defined as "Man's Confidence in Man." But in fact, the
definition of credit today is more like "Man's Confidence in Himself." Using
credit today means you have confidence in your future ability to pay that
debt.
Forty years ago, your parents may have paid cash for their homes and their
cars, a largely unheard-of event today. If they borrowed money at all,
chances are it was from a relative or friend, and not a financial institution.

Today debt and instant credit
are part of our everyday lives. The
convenience of instant credit, however, has taken its toll. Many individuals
use credit cards to spend more than they earn, and a few of these people
actually build themselves a debt prison from which some never emerge.
On the other hand, those who never use credit can be denied a loan or
credit when they have a justifiable need or use for it. Using credit
establishes a history of financial responsibility: Until you establish a credit
history, your chances of qualifying for an important loan, such as a
mortgage, are greatly reduced.

What is the balance between using credit wisely and staying out of
overwhelming debt? Let's look at the facts and some pros and cons.
Back to top

2- Installment Debt
Debt comes in many forms, and most types help us in our daily lives --
when used responsibly. Most people cannot buy a home without some
financial help, and many cannot buy a car (especially a new one) without
some sort of financing. The money borrowed to purchase large-ticket items
is called installment debt: The debtor pays a portion of the total at regular
intervals over a specified period of time. At the end of that time period, the
loan with interest is paid off.

Installment debt allows you to
purchase items at a competitive interest rate: for example, 5%
to 7% for a 30-year home mortgage and 8% or 9% for a car loan. The loan is
paid back on an amortizing schedule, monthly payments of a fixed amount
that remain constant over the life of the loan. At first, most of the monthly
payment consists of interest. In later years, principal begins to be paid
down.

Installment debt is easily budgeted and the debt is
eliminated on a predetermined date. Even for those who may actually have
the cash to purchase the desired item, installment debt can make financial
sense if you can earn a higher return (after taxes) on your investment of
cash than you must pay on your installment debt.
Back to top

3- Revolving Credit
A revolving line of credit, also called "open-ended credit," is made
available to you for use at any time. Examples of revolving credit are credit
cards such as Visa, Mastercard, and department store cards. When you
apply for one of these cards, you receive a credit limit based on your credit
payment history and income.
When you use the credit line, you must make monthly minimum payments
based on the total balance outstanding that month. Some lines of credit will
also have an annual account fee.

While revolving credit is a convenient way to
borrow, it can also become an endless pit of minimum payments that barely
cover the interest due. Many cards charge annual rates of interest of 18%
or higher.
As you pay off your debt, the minimum payment is also reduced, thus
extending your payoff period and, consequently, the interest you pay. Paying
just the minimum due on a $2,000 credit card loan could mean making
monthly interest payments for 10 or more years!

Revolving credit, in addition to
being convenient, eliminates the need to carry a lot
of cash and can help establish you as a creditworthy risk for future loans.
The itemized monthly statements also can help you track your expenses.
But some people can easily yield to the temptation that the convenience of
credit cards offers. Impulse buying, failing to compare costs, and
purchasing large items you can't afford are all downfalls brought on by
always available purchasing power. Spending more than you earn in any
given period is a dangerous practice at best, but doing it over an extended
period of time can be financial suicide.

Installment Debt vs. Revolving
Debt
Lower interest rates and an amortizing repayment schedule can make
installment debt a much cheaper alternative to revolving credit.


4- Using Credit Wisely
To use credit intelligently, start by examining the terms of the card(s) you
are currently using. Keeping track of your cards, their rates, and your
current balances will help you to be aware of how you use credit cards.
Increased competition in recent years has led some credit card companies
to offer enticing features to attract new cardholders, including no annual
fees and low interest rates for an introductory period. (And credit card
companies sometimes will give their introductory rates to existing
cardholders so that they won't transfer their balances to another credit card
company.)
Back to top

5- Eliminating Credit Card Debt
If you think you may have too much credit card debt, begin to address it by
honestly evaluating your spending habits. Examine your existing expenses
to analyze how your money is spent. You will most likely be able to identify
the problem areas where you are more likely to spend too much or too
readily with credit cards.

Then, based on your current spending practices, create a realistic budget to
pay off your credit card debt in the shortest time possible while not adding
any more debt to it. For assistance, you may want to turn to your financial
advisor, who can help you to allocate your resources wisely to address
your credit card debt.
Back to top

6- The Role of Debt
Today, carrying installment debt is almost a fact of life. Mortgages, car
loans, or small-business loans (to name a few) are part of almost
everyone's life. On the other hand, carrying credit card debt is usually not a
good idea. At interest rates of 16% and up, it's hard to justify keeping
savings that could pay off that 18% department-store credit card in the bank
at 2%.

Debt and credit play
increasingly important roles in our
lives. As the aging Baby Boomers get closer to their peak earning years,
many are realizing the need to reduce debt and increase savings.
Even though analyzing your spending habits and creating a budget to
address your debt may seem a little overwhelming, the simplicity of the
philosophy of the Depression era still stands: Never spend more than you
earn. Once you have come to grips with this basic fact, managing your debt
will become far easier and more rewarding.
Back to top

Summary
Installment debt means the loan
is paid off in a specified period of time by making predetermined payments
periodically.
Revolving credit is a line of credit that is instantly available through use of
a credit card (and sometimes a check).


As you pay down your debt in a
revolving line of credit, the minimum payment is also reduced,
thus extending your payoff period and, consequently, the interest you pay.
Spending more than you earn in any given period is a dangerous practice at
best, but doing it over an extended period of time can be financial suicide.


Checklist
Remove high-interest-rate credit cards from your wallet or purse to reduce
the temptation to use them unnecessarily.
Read the fine print on all account statements to understand how your fees
and payment amounts are calculated.


Prepare to transfer balances
from accounts with temporary low interest rates that are
scheduled to rise soon.
Use the savings from your debt reduction initiatives to set more money
aside for important short- and long-term financial goals.
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Rule No. 4: Borrowing

Old thinking: Borrowing sensibly is a good way to build
wealth.

New rule: Borrow cautiously. You have to worry about
the other guy's debt too.

The quarter-century leading up to 2007 wasn't simply a
golden age for stocks. It was also a bull market for
leverage. (That's Wall Streetspeak for debt.) Since
1982, mortgage rates have fallen from 16% to below
6%. The levy on college loans dropped to around 3%.
Americans responded to easy credit in a predictable
way.

The personal savings rate fell from over 12% to zilch,
and household debt payments as a percentage of
disposable income rose by a third as families "put it on
the card" and paid for lavish kitchen upgrades with
home-equity loans.

Looking back, America's borrowing binge was nuts.
Families were leaning on housing wealth, and that
wealth was shaky.

The obvious moral here is to be conservative. There
are always good reasons to borrow, even today. You
need a mortgage to buy a house, and a college
education provides enough of a lifetime payoff to justify
a loan. But you ought to stretch less.

There's a subtler lesson too. David Ellison, president of
the FBR Funds, says that you have more exposure to
leverage than you think, especially now that everyone
is trying to unload debt.

Perhaps your employer borrowed a lot over the past
decade and now needs to conserve cash, so it's laying
off staff. Suddenly that HELOC you could easily handle
on your salary doesn't look like such a super idea.
You can't lean on your investments for help, because
many of the companies you owned used leverage to
pump up profits, and now they can't borrow, so their
earnings and stock prices are falling.

And it's harder to shore up your own balance sheet by
selling your house when banks are reining in lending
and potential buyers are scared to borrow for an asset
that may decline further.

What to do: Be conservative about debt? Make that
very conservative. Especially when your neighbors
aren't. Get a mortgage you can afford for the life of the
loan, and put at least 20% down.

Rule No. 5: Housing

Old thinking: You can expect your house to appreciate
handsomely over the long run.

New rule: Your home won't make you rich. But it is an
important savings tool.

If you live on one of the coasts, you probably guessed
sometime around 2005 that home prices couldn't keep
rising the way they were. But the severity of the crash
was still a shock: You heard a lot about how the market
would have to "cool off" or "get back to normal" - the
implication being that slow but steady appreciation
was the future.

But the long-run data always told a different story. Yale
University economist Robert Shiller looked closely in
2005 at the history of home prices since 1890, using a
database he constructed.
What he found was surprising. Except for two
spectacular booms - the first after World War II and the
second starting in 1998 - real estate appreciation has
been unimpressive after figuring in inflation.

As Shiller wrote in "Irrational Exuberance," technology
has allowed builders to nail up more houses faster,
ensuring that supply never gets too far behind demand
(and often gets ahead of it).

Even when prices are rising, gains on real estate aren't
as dazzling as they look, once you account for
expenses. Maintenance costs typically run at about 1%
of a home's value annually, in addition to insurance and
taxes.

If you remodel, the most you can expect to recoup is
about 80%. You have to pay steep fees when you buy
(up to 3% in closing costs) and sell (up to 6% for realtor
fees).

What to do: This doesn't mean you have to rent, just
that you should have modest expectations for your
house as a wealth builder.
There are still financial pluses. First, owning a house
gives you a hedge against rising values in your own
community so that you don't risk being priced out as
rents go up. (Ask a New Yorker about that.)

Second, a traditional 30-year mortgage acts as what
economists call a "commitment device," or a tool that
forces you to save. Instead of writing a check to a
landlord, you gradually pay off principal. At the end, you
own a house. Aside from your 401(k), no other asset
enforces such discipline.

Rule No. 6: Diversification

Old thinking: A diversified portfolio lowers your risk.

New rule: Diversification won't always save you - and
you need more of it than you think.

Diversification hasn't stopped you from getting hurt in
this downturn. Both U.S. and foreign stocks are deep in
the red. Holding bonds did cushion your losses, but
most kinds of bonds still declined. What happened?

Jeremy Grantham, chief investment strategist at GMO,
observed back in 2007 that we had a bubble not just in
one or two kinds of assets, but in risk. Investors
around the world were so confident, and so hungry for
even a little extra return, that they were throwing
money at anything that might deliver.
Now that the risk bubble has burst, all those investors
want now is the safety of U.S. Treasuries. So
everything has moved roughly in sync, both up and
down, for a few years.

Bear in mind, though, that these times are, to say the
least, unusual. Over a longer period - as little as a
decade - diversification still looks effective. While large
U.S. stocks are down the past 10 years, U.S. corporate
bonds earned 4.6% a year for the same period.

But in a global economy where money moves quickly,
you have to work harder at diversification than before.

What to do: To ensure you are diversified, you don't
have to go out and buy 16 new mutual funds. First, look
under the hood of the funds you have to see if you
already own some of those assets. An easy way to do
so is to plug your holdings into Morningstar.com's
Instant X-Ray tool. And buy funds that kill two birds with
one stone. The T. Rowe Price International Bond fund,
for example, invests up to 20% of its assets in
emerging markets and the rest in developed countries.
Put that together with a high-yield fund and a broad U.S.
bond fund, and you'll own most of the bond universe.

Rule No. 7: Retirement

Old thinking: Retiring
early is a prize.

New rule: Retiring early is
a problem.

Ever since Uncle Sam set 65 as the age you could
retire and collect full Social Security benefits (it's 66 or
67 for boomers today), workers have been trying to
beat that bogey by quitting early. And that seemed well
within reach earlier in this decade after a bull market
that gave workers confidence that their money could
work for them rather than the other way around.

But the reality of early retirement, even before the
stock market's sickening plunge, was never quite that
rosy. More than half of early retirees leave work before
they intended, and of those, nine in 10 depart because
they get sick or are downsized.

And now the financial prospects for those who had a
shot at a secure early retirement have dimmed:
Long-tenured workers nearing retirement have seen
their 401(k) accounts shrink an average of 30% over
the past 14 months, according to EBRI. There's no way
around it: The numbers require you to rethink your
plans.

What to do: "By delaying retirement just one year you
could increase your annual retirement income by 9%,"
says Richard Johnson, senior fellow at the Urban
Institute. If you can hang on to your current high-paying
post, great.

The reality, of course, is that in an era of harsh cost
cutting, well-paid older workers are more vulnerable.
And you might not want to stick it out any longer
anyway if the severance is decent.
But there's much to be gained from finding another job,
even if it's a lower-paid or part-time position. If you can
earn enough to avoid collecting Social Security
benefits early or dipping into your retirement accounts,
research by T. Rowe Price shows, you'll barely feel a
hit to your income when you do retire.
If your new job comes with health benefits, so much
the better. The average health-care tab for an early
retiree before he is eligible for Medicare runs to $8,500
a year, says an AARP study.

Despite all those benefits, if you are still many years
away from the retire-or-work decision, you should
think of working longer as Plan B. As we noted, you
won't have complete control over your ability to work -
your health or the job market could make it difficult.

That means you can't afford to assume that you'll just
work a few more years if things go wrong. You will still
have to stick to rules 1 through 6.
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Treasury Bills: T bills are short-term government
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ASSETES AND LIABILITIES: If you stop working today, assets will put money in your pocket.

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